Installing windows, electrical work

In the last week we have made more good progress. We have begun installing windows. I have been working on the second floor double walls. Rob, our electrician came out today to install the meter socket, electrical panel, and weather head.

Thank goodness we got the roof on before the storm a few days ago. We got about 16 inches!

Thank goodness we got the roof on before the storm a few days ago. We got about 16 inches! Thank you Greg for plowing us a parking spot in the front.

Preparing to install the first window

Windows! Before we can install our windows we pay a lot of attention to flashing. The general idea is to prepare for the eventuality that the flashing or the window itself might leak at some point during its life. Therefore, we want the water to drain out the bottom. We begin by tacking a clapboard down onto the window sill creating a positive drain slope to the exterior. Then, we install a piece of flexible stretchy flashing tape that can go continuously around the corners of the bottom. This is called our sill pan and you can see it installed in the window at the right. If we had used a house wrap, its flaps would protect the sides of the window rough opening, however, since we used the Zip system (the green sheathing) we applied 6" flashing tape to the sides of the rough opening. We aren't worried about protecting the underside of the header with tape since water is unlikely to come through the rough opening there, and if it does, it will quickly move down. After we put the window in, we apply 6" flashing tape over the side flanges and then the top flange of the window. It is important not to put any tape on the bottom flange so that the sill pan can drain to the outside. It is also important to note that we did not use any caulk. Although many knowledgeable builders do seal the window to the house with caulk behind the flange, Joe Lstiburek, a renowned building scientist, calls the practice "unnecessary and dumb". The tape, and the spray foam is an adequate seal from air and water.

Link to article by Joe Lstiburek about window flashing: http://www.buildingscience.com/

Three out of four first floor south windows installed

The south windows are Andersons that I got off of Craigs list. The one on the right is completely done. The two on the left still need to be flashed. Although I purchased a window from Renew for the large opening in the middle, I have decided not to use it since it would require building a jamb. I only paid $100 for the glass anyways.

First floor windows on west face installed

We also installed the two first floor west windows. The window on the left is a Marvin window with true divided lights--very spiffy.

South west first floor windows from the interior

South west first floor windows from the interior

Oak post

We installed the 6x6 oak post that supports the interior part of the LVL beam

The weather head and meter socket

Rob, our electrician, came out today to install the weather head, and meter socket (visible here), as well as the electrical panel. In all, we spent 5 hours out in the cold. I have decided that if I am going to work in the cold I would rather do carpentry than electrical work.

The electrical panel

Here is the electrical panel. I decided we should have 200 amp service in case I decide to take up welding.

The electrical supply entering the house

The electrical enters the house at the north east corner under the stair well. Since the cable travels 8' before it gets to the panel, we needed to have the main disconnect in the meter box outside. The holes will, of course, get spray foamed.

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2 thoughts on “Installing windows, electrical work

  1. I so clearly remember just walking around on an awesome looking slab recently and getting a grand tour. Dumbstruck by your progress!

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